You can’t get close enough, because you will never know if you’re close to that or not. At best, it will be an approximation of 200 units, which is massive. Maybe what you can do is shoot in auto mode a picture, and see its EXIF info if it was close or not, and then add/remove ND filters accordingly to get close.

>I don’t know how old you are but I’m almost 36 years old

I’m 37.

>Some cameras will fit my needs better, for one specific shot more than the other will.

Mixing a non-Canon digicam in your film will be a grave mistake, because the Panasonic MJPEG look is way different to that of Canon’s h.264 digicam look. You will never be able to match it in post. So decide in one camera, or at least Canon P&S digicams only, and use only that.

>I probably don’t really need the exposure lock, if I plan my shots and stay static on the tripod.

Wrong. You always need to set+lock exposure. Even if the subject moves just a foot while he talks, the exposure will jump. In that respect, the FX150 is useless. I suggest you sell it, and use that money towards a better camera. Indeed, get either the S95 that has better hardware, or the SD4500, that has more software video features.

> can only be achieved by having a camera shoot @24p with a shutter speed of 1/48th…that’s just the mechanics of it,that cannot be emulated. Am I on the right track?

Yes. There are a lot of 24p short movies out there that were not shot in 1/48th, and they don’t look proper. But anyways.

If I’m understanding what you’re telling Glenn is,this can only be achieved by having a camera shoot @24p with a shutter speed of 1/48th…that’s just the mechanics of it,that cannot be emulated.Am I on the right track or the wrong bus altogether?

Thank you in advance.

Thanks to this discussion I now know that I can stack ND filters to help me get closer to the 1/48th shutter speed and trust me…I am really grateful for that information…maybe I’ll even give you some props in my movie credits;)

BUT…

I don’t think you’re hearing what I’m saying…or maybe I’m not explaining myself well enough. I already own an fX-150…I was planing on shooting shorts with that camera. When the S95 and 4500is came out with 24p and exposure lock…I felt I could save up the money and add that to my collection. I’m not using just one camera. I do multiple camera shoots. Some cameras will fit my needs better, for one specific shot more than the other will. So I need the 24p to match the other two I already own. I probably don’t really need the exposure lock, if I plan my shots and stay static on the tripod. I’d rather have some movement in my shots and that’s why I am looking at the 4500is or the S95.

Honestly I cannot believe that you, seem, to be saying to not even bother shooting a movie with a 24p camera that doesn’t have shutter speed control. I get your point and like I said in an optimal world I would love to have full manual control but I don’t…but I’m still going to make a movie anyway.

Sorry, but properly shooting in 24p, still has a cost. As I said above, the cheapest such camera costs $600 or $700. Which is a bargain compared to what it used to cost just a few short years ago: ~$5,000. So make your purchase carefully.

It showed me that this camera can accept movement and, if orchestrated properly, could have the subtle, slow movements that make movies come to life…not that I’m against static shots but it’s good to know there are options.

Also I liked the slight, depth of field that was obtained with the camera(I know any digicam could have created the depth of field his video had) There was also a few shots, at the end, where he pointed the camera at the sky and twirled around, I really liked the retro, 60′s Super 8 feel of the color grading in those shots. One of the scripts I am working on involves some flashbacks and old movie footage from the good old days of Super 8 and as much as I’d love to get out my old Bauer and gun some film through it, it’s just not that practical, so I love that that image can be replicated with modern video…and it looks pretty, damn good.

BTW, I think that is a favorite shot of his…he has a video shot with a Harinezumi where he does the same exact twirling shot but he just didn’t have to color grade it, due to the nature of the Digital Harinezumi.

If I wanted to do better slow motion(which I’m not all that interested in) I’d get a PAL camera that shot in 50i and slow that down to the 24p for a more effective and dramatic slow-mo effect.

You’re right about the meatloaf contest though…that was a bunch of garbage but I doubt he was attempting anything other than chronicling a meatloaf contest…for whatever damn reason?

To answer your rhetorical question…yes, I want to shoot narrative movies with dialogue. I have my zoom recorder and my shotgun and lavalier mics all ready to be used.

I get your point though about equipment and like I said before…if I had more readily available funds and resources I would shoot my shorts/features with a t2i or a 7D with fast, prime lenses but I don’t, so my choices are…either don’t make a movie, or be creative with what I do have or what I can afford…I’d rather make a movie…is there anything better?